The Joker Makeup
On the catwalks, the series, the social networks, the high-profile events and the red carpets, we are bombarded with makeup ideas that are more or less striking depending on the case and occasion: what if the very marked eyes of María Pedraza at the Film Festival of Saint Sebastian; what if the glitters and impossible outlines of ‘Euphoria’; What if the very red or dark lips of the last Max Mara parade…
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The Look That Always Works
Luckily, that infallible makeup feels good regardless of the event you have, the age you have reached, and works on each of the faces and skin tones.
We have been tipped off by the best-kept secret (in a live stream on Instagram) Iván Gómez, makeup artist and Chanel ambassador for Spain, and one of the members of the French firm’s team that is in charge of making up actresses (and actors) in the 67th version of the San Sebastian Film Festival. For him, the starting point for inspiration is the ‘look’ that Paz Vega wore to present the film ‘El logo, the classic joker whose starting point is the chromatic harmony of earth tones, which works independently of the subtone of skin you have and the colour of your eyes, because it neutralizes and envelops the whole, according to Gómez. Other keys: do not insist or recharge too much, ‘lift’ the naturalness because less is more.
The skin, almost naked And with some light
The face must be cared for and hydrated but not overloaded with makeup. It is preferable to use a light makeup background and cover only the imperfections than to go overboard, which Iván Gómez attaches great importance to. And, above all, you have to focus on the area under the eyes and nose, because according to him, if that area looks ‘good’, it gives light to the whole face.
If you want to give the face a little more ‘life’, for example, in a night event, add points of light with an illuminator or with a blush that has some shine on the cheeks and eyelids, which is what gives that ‘flash effect’ or glow perfect for the night.
The Eyes, In Shades Of Brown
The subtle smoky technique we will have to use to highlight the eyes. Let’s go by parts:
The eye pencil
Gómez recommends using a khôl, a pencil with a soft tip that is easy to handle, black or brown. “You put it on both the lower and upper eye lines without control,” he says. It blur with the fingertips or one of the applicators that come in the eyeshadows themselves.
The pencil integrated with neutral brown shadows, or if you want to stand out a little more, you can use gold or iron tones. It is unnecessary to be an axe with the brushes: this ‘integration does not require a great technique; you have to respect the eye socket, not go beyond or give an ascending direction. The mobile eyelid is the place to influence.
It would help if you never forgot it. “With a mascara, it is possible to improve the look and give it a direction (better outwards) that ‘lifts’ the eyes,” says the joker makeup artist.
THE ROUGE, AS IF THE SUN HAD GIVEN US
Blush becomes essential in this wildcard ‘look’. It use to imitate tanning, which always leaves us with a good face, and a healthy appearance and can apply in different ways. Iván Gómez tells us that if it uses to the centre of the cheek, the air it gives us is an innocent young man.
If you want something more refined, you can blend it towards the temples and even tint the arch of the nose with it. Moreover, If there will photos involved, it is better to use powder blushes; if not, cream blushes always work. Tip: if applied upwards, a rounder face stylized; if applied to the cheek in a more rounded way, it hides a long look.
LIPS IN HARMONY
Here you can play with more matte or gloss finishes, depending on your taste, but the important thing is to continue playing with that range of earth tones so that the whole is matched and does not detract from the eyes. It can also left without joker makeup, with a touch of balm to make them look, yes, hydrated.