A Simple Eye Makeup
The eyeliner is so classic that it was the basis of their makeup for the ancient Egyptians. The evolution leads us to the fact that the lower eyeliner is making its way this season. These are all your keys.
Even before we went on vacation. The bottom eyeliner was already making its way as one of fall’s up-and-coming makeup trends.
By the grace of Peter Philips, Dior’s creative and makeup image director, he anticipated his prominence this season at the winter 2021-22 Haute Couture show held in early July.
On that catwalk, it seen in a dark-blue-almost-black tone, which for the makeup artist was indicative of “a variation of the classic lower eyeliner that unites sewing and cool, that intense as well as delicate.”
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WHAT IS AN UNDERLINER: THE ORIGINS
This eyeliner also known as inverse, although professional ‘brushes’ call it inverted eyeliner.
It consists of “filling the waterline of the lower interior of the eye with black and also bordering the lower line of the eyelashes to frame the area and emphasize the look much more,” according to Iván Gómez, official makeup artist for Chanel in US. And Portugal, master of eyeliner and creator of memorable make -up on actresses like Úrsula Corberó, María Pedraza, Maribel Verdú or Almudena Amor, whose eye I outlined precisely in such a guise at the recent San Sebastian Film Festival.
The use of eyeliner in the opposite way to the traditional way goes back, as far as Gómez remembers, to the parades of the 90s -we will not forget this decade is an aesthetic reference in terms of hairstyles as well-.
THE LOWER EYELINER IS MUCH SIMPLER THAN THE CLASSIC
One of the truths as in this art of makeup is that the eyeliner is the most difficult to achieve; hence we always go after the final trick to make the task easier.
We are lucky because the lower eyeliner is much easier. Since making up the water line is an intuitive gesture that does not require any technique.
Yes, a little more precision is needed to draw the lower line of the eyelashes. “but it will always an easier gesture than the upper line since there are no creases. It is usually done with the eyes open while to making a classic eyeliner you have to have your eyes closed or partially open”, encourages Iván Gómez.
LOWER EYELINER FOR A SIMPLE EYE MAKEUP: HOW TO GET IT, STEP BY STEP
Before getting into the matter and ‘attacking’ the eye, you have to choose the right weapons. And these would be two, at least.
To make up the waterline, from the inside, the most suitable product is a kohl pencil since its melting texture facilitates application; however, for the lower lash line, it preferable to use waterproof products, such as an automatic pencil, since being so close to the eyes it easy for it to get wet and move over time.
- Chosen weapons, this is the definitive step by step, signed by Iván Gómez.
- The first step would be to make up the waterline with a kohl pencil and fix it with the help of a brush and a matte black shadow.
- Afterwards, a line drawn at the level of the eyelashes with the automatic pencil, and then it fixed with the help of a bevelled brush.
- Today the trend is to ‘open’ the outer end as if it were an inverted eyeliner to tear. Enlarge the look and reach the tear duct area to frame and emphasize the look from beginning to future.